{"id":1422,"date":"2017-11-15T21:31:09","date_gmt":"2017-11-16T02:31:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/?page_id=1422"},"modified":"2019-03-08T11:27:02","modified_gmt":"2019-03-08T16:27:02","slug":"illustrated-guide-to-the-layers","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/womens-garb-piece-by-piece\/illustrated-guide-to-the-layers\/","title":{"rendered":"An Illustrated Guide to the Layers"},"content":{"rendered":"

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The hardest part of Turkish clothing is figuring out the layers. You’ve got long robes and short robes and bits poking out and layers on top and layers underneath and layers that must have been added just to make you tear your hair out, and which ones do you wear and what do they mean and aaaaaaaaaaaugh I’m going back to Italian ren<\/em>.<\/p>\n

But it’s easy. It’s really, really easy. 16th-century Ottoman Turkish women wore only a few layers, all predefined, with far fewer variations than their European counterparts. Once you know what a woman should be wearing, it’s child’s play to look at a picture and assign each visible piece to a garment.<\/p>\n

Let’s start with how women dressed at home. This outfit–minus the pattens–is the minimum a woman could wear to call herself fully dressed.<\/p>\n

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“Cak\u015f\u0131r” is incorrect. It should say “don.”<\/p><\/div>\n

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Pronunciation<\/h4>\n

\u00c7ak\u015f\u0131r:<\/strong> chahk-shr\u00a0<\/i><\/a><\/p>\n

G\u00f6mlek:<\/strong> like gurm-lek, but without the R\u00a0<\/i><\/a><\/p>\n

Z\u0131b\u0131n:<\/strong>\u00a0The dotless\u00a0\u0131 is a schwa, the amorphous vowel that’s represented by the O in “button” or the E in “raven,” so z\u0131b\u0131n\u00a0is pronounced something like z’b’n.\u00a0<\/i><\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

From the skin out, a woman wore trousers (don<\/em> or \u00e7ak\u015f\u0131r<\/em>), a\u00a0long shift (g\u00f6mlek<\/em>), and a hip-length jacket called a z\u0131b\u0131n<\/em>. In modern terms, the trousers, g\u00f6mlek, and z\u0131b\u0131n are analogous to pants, camisole, and blouse.<\/p>\n

There are a couple of variations for each garment:<\/p>\n