{"id":1468,"date":"2017-11-18T00:37:41","date_gmt":"2017-11-18T05:37:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/?page_id=1468"},"modified":"2017-11-18T02:43:50","modified_gmt":"2017-11-18T07:43:50","slug":"capturing-lost-patterns","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/fabrics-and-colors\/capturing-lost-patterns\/","title":{"rendered":"Capturing Lost Patterns"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Museum collections around the world can show you, in exquisite detail, how the richest of the richest Ottoman Turks decorated their clothes. What about the middle and working classes? Pattern-woven and printed cottons were mainstays of the textile trade, but only a tiny handful made it into museum collections, and then only in styles worn at court. Traditional Indian and Persian patterns are recorded as being woven into wool, silk, and even cotton and linen, but again, they&#8217;re missing from extant garments. How are we to recreate these lost patterns?<\/p>\n<p>Some of the patterns were recorded by artists&#8230; with varying levels of skill and accuracy, in pictures a few inches high. But it&#8217;s a record, dammit.\u00a0When I come across a patterned textile from a reasonably accurate source, I get the best available reproduction of it and store it here, in the hopes that reenactors will be able to get at least a sense of the world of pattern and color now lost to us.<\/p>\n<h4>Dancing Skirts<\/h4>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dancing-boy-Album-of-Ahmed-I.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-1473\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dancing-boy-Album-of-Ahmed-I.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"173\" height=\"394\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dancing-boy-Album-of-Ahmed-I.jpg 173w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dancing-boy-Album-of-Ahmed-I-132x300.jpg 132w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dancing-boy-Album-of-Ahmed-I-66x150.jpg 66w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 173px) 100vw, 173px\" \/><\/a>Both dancing boys and dancing girls wore distinctive two-tiered skirts when they performed. The boy to the right, from the Album of Ahmed I (c. 1610), is shown in the complete outfit, with a ruffled hip skirt and a striped full-length skirt. A number of artists, both Turkish and European, drew stylized renditions of the striped designs.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m not sure whether the designs were in general use, or whether they were used only on dancing skirts.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/party-with-music-and-dance-right-side\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Professional dancers balancing plates<\/a>, drawn by European artist\u00a0Wehme Zacharias in c. 1582:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-dancers.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1474\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-dancers.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"347\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-dancers.png 525w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-dancers-300x198.png 300w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-dancers-150x99.png 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Bazaar paintings from c. 1618-1625:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-4.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1472 alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-4.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"314\" height=\"267\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-4.png 314w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-4-300x255.png 300w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-4-150x128.png 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 314px) 100vw, 314px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-1.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-1469\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-1.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"260\" height=\"250\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-1.png 260w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-1-150x144.png 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 260px) 100vw, 260px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-2.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1470 alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-2.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"282\" height=\"341\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-2.png 282w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-2-248x300.png 248w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-2-124x150.png 124w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 282px) 100vw, 282px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-3.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1471 alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-3.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"256\" height=\"317\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-3.png 256w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-3-242x300.png 242w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/skirt-3-121x150.png 121w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 256px) 100vw, 256px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<hr style=\"clear: both;\" \/>\n<h4>Kaftans<\/h4>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/party-with-music-and-dance-right-side\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Women dancing at a ladies&#8217; party<\/a>, drawn by European artist\u00a0Wehme Zacharias in c. 1582:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-women.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1475\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-women.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"505\" height=\"363\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-women.png 505w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-women-300x216.png 300w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-women-150x108.png 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 505px) 100vw, 505px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The woman on the left wears a pattern of triple \u00e7intamani, and the woman on the right wears a pattern of dots (or a single\u00a0\u00e7intamani?) joined by a lattice of tiger stripes. <a href=\"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/party-with-music-and-dance-left-side\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A woman on the other side of the drawing<\/a> wears a similar pattern:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-dancing-woman-left-side.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1478\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-dancing-woman-left-side.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"243\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-dancing-woman-left-side.png 243w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-dancing-woman-left-side-194x300.png 194w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-dancing-woman-left-side-97x150.png 97w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 243px) 100vw, 243px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Johannes Lewenklaw must have spent time with the same models, because in c. 1585 <a href=\"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/dancing-women\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">he drew two<\/a> whose kaftans are identical to ones drawn by Wehme Zacharias. The woman on the far right is identical to the woman above, and the woman in the orange kaftan is identical to the woman in the first picture, on the left. (Click on the picture to see it full-size, then squint&#8211;the triple\u00a0\u00e7intamani motif is faint.)<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-II-Female-dancers.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1482\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-II-Female-dancers.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1054\" height=\"578\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-II-Female-dancers.png 1054w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-II-Female-dancers-300x165.png 300w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-II-Female-dancers-768x421.png 768w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-II-Female-dancers-1024x562.png 1024w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-II-Female-dancers-150x82.png 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1054px) 100vw, 1054px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/necking-couples\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Another patterned kaftan<\/a> drawn by Johannes Lewenklaw:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-II-dark-kaftan.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1484\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-II-dark-kaftan.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"286\" height=\"558\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-II-dark-kaftan.png 286w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-II-dark-kaftan-154x300.png 154w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-II-dark-kaftan-77x150.png 77w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 286px) 100vw, 286px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Scattered blue-on-blue sunburst? floral? designs in a <a href=\"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/young-woman-in-blue\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">late 16th-century painting<\/a> from a court album:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/young-woman-in-blue-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1486 aligncenter\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/young-woman-in-blue-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"284\" height=\"757\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/young-woman-in-blue-1.jpg 284w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/young-woman-in-blue-1-113x300.jpg 113w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/young-woman-in-blue-1-56x150.jpg 56w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 284px) 100vw, 284px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>A wealth of patterns from the Codex Vindobonensis 8626, circa 1590:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-I-Turkish-women.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1487\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-I-Turkish-women.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"834\" height=\"681\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-I-Turkish-women.png 834w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-I-Turkish-women-300x245.png 300w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-I-Turkish-women-768x627.png 768w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-I-Turkish-women-150x122.png 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 834px) 100vw, 834px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-I-Dancing-women.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1491\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-I-Dancing-women.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"674\" height=\"485\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-I-Dancing-women.png 674w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-I-Dancing-women-300x216.png 300w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Vienna-I-Dancing-women-150x108.png 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 674px) 100vw, 674px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<hr style=\"clear: both;\" \/>\n<h4>Rugs<\/h4>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/issendai.com\/ottoman-turkish\/party-with-music-and-dance-left-side\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Professional musicians performing at a party<\/a>, drawn by European artist\u00a0Wehme Zacharias in c. 1582:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-musicians-left-side.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1480\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-musicians-left-side.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"969\" height=\"325\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-musicians-left-side.png 969w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-musicians-left-side-300x101.png 300w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-musicians-left-side-768x258.png 768w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/Dresden-musicians-left-side-150x50.png 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 969px) 100vw, 969px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Museum collections around the world can show you, in exquisite detail, how the richest of the richest Ottoman Turks decorated their clothes. What about the middle and working classes? Pattern-woven and printed cottons were mainstays of the textile trade, but only a tiny handful made it into museum collections, and\u2026<\/p>\n<p class=\"continue-reading-button\"> <a class=\"continue-reading-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/fabrics-and-colors\/capturing-lost-patterns\/\">Continue reading<i class=\"crycon-right-dir\"><\/i><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":943,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[82],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1468","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry","category-fabrics-and-colors"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1468","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1468"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1468\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1493,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1468\/revisions\/1493"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/943"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1468"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1468"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1468"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}