{"id":1881,"date":"2018-06-13T15:53:09","date_gmt":"2018-06-13T20:53:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/?page_id=1881"},"modified":"2018-06-13T19:13:07","modified_gmt":"2018-06-14T00:13:07","slug":"yelek","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/garments\/what-were-they-called\/inner-robes\/yelek\/","title":{"rendered":"Yelek"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_1560\" style=\"width: 416px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/sarho\u015f-drunkard-small.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1560\" class=\"wp-image-1560 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/sarho\u015f-drunkard-small.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"406\" height=\"531\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/sarho\u015f-drunkard-small.jpg 406w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/sarho\u015f-drunkard-small-229x300.jpg 229w, https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/sarho\u015f-drunkard-small-115x150.jpg 115w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 406px) 100vw, 406px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1560\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A young drunkard in a purple yelek, circa 1625.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The yelek is a hip-length jacket that men wore over their gomlek and z\u0131b\u0131n and under their belt and overcoat as a formal layer. It was a less cumbersome, less fabric-intensive, and therefore less high-status replacement for the kaftan. Soldiers, cooks, baristas, porters, and other men who worked with their hands wore yeleks, but so did elegant young men and respectable older men.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Yelek&#8221; is commonly translated as the short vest or overjacket worn by both men and women, and it certainly came to mean this in later centuries. However, analysis of descriptions of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/fabrics-and-colors\/slaves-clothing\/\">16th-century escaped slaves&#8217; clothing<\/a> shows that the yelek was worn under an overcoat, not as an overcoat.<\/p>\n<p>So what was the vest or overjacket called? We don&#8217;t know. Yeleks do appear in women&#8217;s inventories, and while women sometimes own traditionally male items that they inherited from a male relative, there are too many yelek-owning women for the yelek to be solely a male formal underlayer. Was the female jacket a yelek, while the male jacket was something else? Did &#8220;yelek&#8221; change its meaning from the first half of the century to the end of the century, moving from an underlayer to an overlayer? More research needs to be done.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The yelek is a hip-length jacket that men wore over their gomlek and z\u0131b\u0131n and under their belt and overcoat as a formal layer. It was a less cumbersome, less fabric-intensive, and therefore less high-status replacement for the kaftan. Soldiers, cooks, baristas, porters, and other men who worked with their\u2026<\/p>\n<p class=\"continue-reading-button\"> <a class=\"continue-reading-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/garments\/what-were-they-called\/inner-robes\/yelek\/\">Continue reading<i class=\"crycon-right-dir\"><\/i><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":1987,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[99,98,100],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1881","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry","category-final-names","category-garments","category-proper-names"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1881","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1881"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1881\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1964,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1881\/revisions\/1964"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1987"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1881"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1881"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1881"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}