{"id":2409,"date":"2020-03-22T21:10:07","date_gmt":"2020-03-23T02:10:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/?page_id=2409"},"modified":"2020-03-22T21:10:09","modified_gmt":"2020-03-23T02:10:09","slug":"seam-finishes","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/fabrics-and-colors\/seam-finishes\/","title":{"rendered":"Seam Finishes"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

This is a collection of seam finishes from 16th- and early 17th-century undergarments in the Topkapi Palace collection, as documented by Raziye \u00c7elik in her thesis Topkap\u0131 Saray\u0131 M\u00fczesi\u2019ndeki i\u00e7 giyim \u00f6rneklerinin incelenmesi \u00fczerine bir ara\u015ft\u0131rma<\/em> (2013). (Link coming when I can find a copy that’s not via Docplayer.) I translated the paper using Google Translate and a lot of digging about on the Web to confirm terminology, so my translations are imperfect by necessity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sultan Selim II’s Quilted Underpants (Don<\/em>)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

16th century; Selim II died in 1574. Pp. 94-96.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The underpants are made of two layers of fine white cotton cloth. The legs have a filling of a layer of cotton fiber about a centimeter thick, quilted with oyulgama diki\u015fi<\/em>, running stitch. The crotch gore is also double-layered, but rather than being heavily quilted, it’s filled with “a fine sprinkling of cotton” (\u00e7ok ince serpme pamuk<\/em>) tacked down with intermittent running stitches (aral\u0131kl\u0131 oyulgama<\/em>). (If you’re interested in Ottoman quilting, this pair of underpants is an excellent study of how they varied the thickness of fillings and the closeness of rows of stitches to achieve maximum comfort and warmth.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The waistband was made by turning the lining fabric to the outside, turning the edge under, and sewing a single line of backstitching (elde makine diki\u015fi<\/em> or makine diki\u015fi<\/em>) along the edge. Another line of backstitching was added just below the seam, on the body of the garment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lines of backstitching were used on both sides of the seam between the crotch gore and the leg pieces, though the paper doesn’t explain how the seams were made.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The inner leg seams were joined with double rows of backstitching. Again, the paper doesn’t explain how the seams were made.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Osman II’s Comically Huge Summer Underpants<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Osman II was born in 1604 and died in 1622. He was rather slim for a sultan, so it’s not clear why his underwear was so huge, or how the low crotch worked with the closely fitted trousers of the day. Pp. 98-101.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The underwear are made of a translucent gauze, so all the seams are as narrow as possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The waistband was made by folding over the top of the waistline, turning the raw edge under, and stitching it down with \u00e7ift s\u0131ra elde makine diki\u015fi<\/em>, a double row of backstitch. The folded-under section is minute, and the two rows of backstitch, in golden silk thread, are astonishingly small.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Most of the other garment pieces are edged with selvage, so they are joined with whipstitch (\u00e7\u0131rpma diki\u015fi<\/em>). The crotch gusset, which presumably has raw edges, is sewn to the leg pieces with an extremely narrow French seam (temiz diki\u015f<\/em>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The ends of the cuffs are finished with another double row of backstitch.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

This is a collection of seam finishes from 16th- and early 17th-century undergarments in the Topkapi Palace collection, as documented by Raziye \u00c7elik in her thesis Topkap\u0131 Saray\u0131 M\u00fczesi\u2019ndeki i\u00e7 giyim \u00f6rneklerinin incelenmesi \u00fczerine bir ara\u015ft\u0131rma (2013). (Link coming when I can find a copy that’s not via Docplayer.) I\u2026<\/p>\n

Continue reading<\/i><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":943,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[82],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2409","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry","category-fabrics-and-colors"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/2409","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2409"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/2409\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2415,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/2409\/revisions\/2415"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/943"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2409"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2409"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.issendai.com\/16thcenturyistanbul\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2409"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}